The Dragons of Ixlu: Dragonfly Watching in Guatemala


Dragonfly watchers are known to insiders as “Oding” enthusiasts. No other insect is as agile and quick as are these miniature helicopters. They can fly in six different directions. One scientist clocked a particular type of dragonfly flying at 90 kilometers per hour, making them the fastest of all insects! And just as is the case with bird watching, you […]

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Trekking the Cuchumatanes


There is a saying among well-traveled foreigners in Guatemala: Todo es posible aquí, y nada es seguro (All is possible here, and nothing is for certain). The Maya people, of course, know all about uncertainty. As a novelist, I have recounted of some terrible events that happened throughout the Cuchumatanes Mountains during the 1980s, and often wondered if time would […]

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San Cristóbal de las Casas

If Copán is a quarter-sized version of La Antigua Guatemala, San Cristóbal de las Casas, one of the few remaining colonial gems of Mexico (founded in 1528) is Antigua times three. And, whereas the good people of Antigua seem to revere their city’s signs of age, in San Cristóbal, they have painted, patched and applied mascara. The inner center of the city is designed for walking, shopping and eating, with several streets closed to cars.

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Spectacular, Accessible Iximché Beckons

Iximché photo by Freddy Murphy/

From Kings to Conquerors, and Proconsuls to Presidents—all have trod here, leaving something and taking something. Most travelers whiz through Tecpán at white-knuckling speed on their way to Lake Atitlán or Quetzaltenango. Some slow down a bit to admire the towering thatches of the Katok and Kape Paulinos restaurants, which form a pastoral skyline. Still others stop for gas or […]

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